Thursday 13 December 2007

RED, WHITE (AND BLUE CHEESE)


Continuing the theme of last month's article, X-mess is now practically upon us, So I thought I'd take this final opportunity to impart some advice, and cast it from a circle a little more wide.

Yes, the headline is misleading (more of that later). Given the time of year I'm going to dedicate this article to reds:-
Ones to Hit:
Given the fact that most of us will be tucking into big, hearty fare (I'll be keeping mine veggie), especially on Ex-Mass day, why shouldn't we have a wine to match? Tannat is a grape that produces wines that are weighty, and, as its name suggests, tannic (tannin being a component from the skins and seeds of grapes that produces the astringent, drying effect in your mouth when you drink red wines). Its spiritual home is the Madiran AC in south-west France, and one of my favourite examples is Chateau Bouscasse 2003 Madiran (14% ABV), a blend of 65% Tannat, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc. It sits inkily opague in the glass, emitting a seductive woodspice before unleashing pleasant, bitter / ripe waves of coffee, dark-chocolate and Black Forest Gateau. If bought as part of a case (12 bottles) of wines from winedirect.co.uk, It's available for a very reasonable £9, However, as I know most of us aren't financially flush enough to be buying our wines by the case just yet, I'll also mention that you can pick it up in person from the Fortnum & Mason wine department for a still not unreasonable £11.50. Keeping it under a tenner, and co-incidentally southern French - My next choice would be Domaine Clavel's 2005 'Les Catalognes' (13.5% ABV), from the Coteaux du Languedoc AC. Ostensibly a red wine, it's a actually a blend of 6 varieties (Carignan, Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Muscat a Petit Grains and Pinot Gris), the two smallest in proportion being white grapes. These provide a freshness and light finish to what would otherwise be a fairly weighty wine. So, what do I mean by that? Well, the thick legs / tears clinging to the sides of the glass indicate that the liquid inside shall pack quite a punch, and the nose seems to support this - rich, potent, purple fleshed fruits in a perfume of damson, blackcurrant spice and freshly baked sweet-pastry crust. However, although this is borne out when you take a mouthful, there is also a balance between the alcohol, acidity and rounded tannins, topped off with a silkiness which is the mark of those fresh and light qualities I mentioned before. It's available for £6.79 In branches of Oddbins or at discounted 6 and 12 bottle rates on their website ( www.oddbins.com).And finally, for those of you outside of central London, with no Oddbins nearby, I'll complete my French southwestern 'troika' with a recommendation from Sainbury's - their own-label 2006 Organic Syrah (13% ABV). At £5.49 (sometimes cheaper, when part of cut-price or multi-buy promotions) you get a lot of wine for your money - mulberry, forest fruits and subdued spice on the nose, before a moreish, multi-layered palate of black-pepper and rich black fruits balancing alcohol and soft-textured tannins. I've drunk plenty of both this and the even better 2005 (grab it if you can still find it) over the past year, I can tell you. Shockingly, I couldn't find it on their website when researching this article. But then, fortunately, I couldn't find the next one on my list either... One to miss (at all costs):Gallo Family Vineyards Sycamore Canyon 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon (13.5% ABV) - this is a classic example of supermarket wine 'discounting' bullshit, and shame on Sainsbury's for pushing it as a 'bargain'. So, in this issue I giveth with one hand and take with the other (just like God, really, but at least I exist. Can't turn water into wine just yet though folks, sorry!) Why do I hate this wine so much? Well, I hate being ripped off, you see. I'm no fool, I know that supermarket half-price wine deals are rarely, if ever, that. However, when I'm getting a wine that's supposed to be worth well over £8 (I paid £4.39 for it) at a discount I expect it to be worth at least a fiver. Not asking for much, eh? But no, it wasn't even up to that. The nose started to give the game away - slightly baked with aromas of parma-violets and boiled sweets - not what I want from a wine. The palate was no better either - heavy with prominent, volatile alcohol and slightly sweet, confected fruit leading to an aftertaste of syrupy dessert sauces and a bitter anti-climax of a finish. This wine was an insult, and if I'd paid the full price I'd have been extremely pissed-off. Believe me I tasted this wine so you don't have to. So, there you go. I hope I've steered you toward some affordable, quality drinking and away from a notable scam. Call it my present to you for the festive season. I hope it's a good one. You'll hear from me again in the New Year. markusofwine@googlemail.com
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MARKUS KEANEY
Exclusive Guest DJ for the Christmas Vapour Trail

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